Insulation

This is a blown application that is used in attics and exterior walls of new or existing structures. Blown Fiberglass insulation is a great choice because its physical properties make it light and fluffy, therefore it easily holds its depth and R-Value over time. (Manufacturer: Owens Corning, Product: L77)

A blown application that is used in attics and exterior walls of new or existing structures. This is a very green product that is produced from 100% recycled material. Blown Cellulose is a very dense product that creates a great seal and takes fewer inches to achieve the same R-Value as Fiberglass. (Manufacturer: US Green Fiber, Product: 765LD All Borate Loose Fill Formula)

This is an application for new construction that custom fits each cavity to seal all cracks and voids. It is applied with water and a glue adhesive to help the material remain in place. One thing to remember with Cellulose Wall Spray is that it is applied with water, so there needs to be some time to dry before hanging drywall. This drying period is typically 1-3 days. (Manufacturer: Applegate)

This system is better known industry wide as a Blown-In-Blanket-System. It is an application for new construction or retrofit projects with open stud cavities. A mesh netting fabric is stapled onto the face of the studs and the cavities are filled with the Blown Fiberglass, creating a custom seal to each cavity space by filling in and sealing all nooks and crannies. A big advantage of this system is that it is applied dry, so there is no dry-time before hanging drywall – it can be covered immediately. (Manufacturer: Owens Corning, Product: L77 (ProPink Complete Insulation System)

This product is made from 100% recycled newspaper and cardboard content, and is used largely on metal buildings, gymnasiums and auditoriums. It is a versatile product that can be used for thermal, vapor barrier, or acoustical needs. (Manufacturer: International Cellulose Corporation, Product: K13)

There are two different types of spray foam, open-cell spray foam and closed-cell spray foam. Both create great air seals when applied, but the difference is in R-value. Open-cell has an R-value of roughly 4.0 per inch. Closed-cell has an R-value of roughly 6.2 to 7.0 per inch, depending on the manufacturer. The other main difference is that closed-cell spray foam can create a good vapor barrier while open-cell cannot. (Manufacturer: Lapolla Industries, Product: Foam-Lok)

One of the most important methods of creating an energy efficient building is to seal all points of air infiltration. This is most commonly needed in leaky areas around windows, doors, electrical outlets, plumbing, and wood-to-wood joints on exterior walls. It can be achieved through a variety of techniques, such as caulking, foaming, or stuffing insulation into these leaky areas. (Manufacturer: BOSS, Foam Manufacturer: Tytan or Soudal)

It is extremely important for your home’s attic to have an adequate amount of ventilation. Ideally, air enters the attic at the lowest point, which is known as the eave or soffit, and exits at the highest point, which is known as the ridge. So, if you are building a new home, you definitely want to plan to install soffit vents at your eaves, and a continuous ridge vent at your ridge. If you have an existing home, you may look to add soffit vents and a ridge vent if possible, or an alternative to the ridge vent is to install flat roof vents on the upper side of the roof near the ridge, to create the air flow exit. Another important component to create this air flow is the use of Vent Chutes or Air Baffles. These are most commonly made of a styrofoam or cardboard material, and are stapled or nailed inside the attic at the eave in order to keep the blown insulation from filling the vented soffit, and the air flow to move along the decking from the soffits to the ridge. A properly ventilated attic keeps from building up extreme temperatures and extends the life of your roof.

It is sometimes necessary to remove old or damaged insulation before properly air sealing or insulating an attic. This is usually necessary if there has been a leak or fire resulting in water or smoke damage. The insulation removal process is most often done with an industrial caliber vacuum made specifically for removing insulation. Although it’s never an easy job, these vacuums provide for a fairly quick and efficient process in removing the insulation.

The most common purpose for insulating your water lines is to keep them from freezing. This is most commonly done when your water lines run under your home in a crawl space. However, wrapping your water lines with foam pipe insulation helps maximize the efficiency of your water heater as well.

This is a vinyl-faced roll of fiberglass insulation that is made to wrap around your water heater and maximize its efficiency in doing so. We then use very long zip ties to hold the wrap on the heater. This can be done to electric and gas water heaters.

This is a common practice in newer homes, but if you have an older existing home this may be something to look into. We simply wrap the duct work with insulation in order to make your heating and cooling units operate as efficiently as possible.

A basement blanket insulation is a white, vinyl-faced fiberglass batt insulation that is installed directly onto the concrete foundation walls, providing for an R-value of R-11 to R-13. This is performed by using either stick pins with dome caps, or a ramset gun with washers. Either way it is installed, it provides a nice, semi-finished, clean look that brightens and warms a basement. It also improves acoustical performance of these basement areas.

This is a reflective foil insulation that is used in areas that are more susceptible to radiant heat, such as knee walls, bonus rooms, and other areas where there is little to no attic space. This is typically installed by using staples, with either a hammer or pneumatic gun. This system provides an R-value of R-8 to R-11.